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The city’s history and unique character are in the details: to find and experience these, check out the little antiques markets the local shopping districts the smaller, quirkier sights the city’s twisted, grey stone alleyway hutongs and the parks, where you’ll see old men sitting with their caged songbirds. But it’s essentially a private city, one whose surface, though attractive, is difficult to penetrate. With its sights, history and, importantly, delicious food (all of China’s diverse cuisines can be enjoyed cheaply at the city’s numerous restaurants and street stalls), Beijing is a place that almost everyone enjoys. The main tourist sights – the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace and the Great Wall – also impress with their scale, though more manageable grandeur is offered by the city’s attractive temples, including the Tibetan-style Yonghe Gong, the Taoist Baiyun Guan, and the astonishing Temple of Heaven, once a centre for imperial rites. It’s a perception reinforced on closer acquaintance by the concrete desert of Tian’anmen Square, and the gargantuan buildings of the modern executive around it. Most of the city’s 22 million-strong population are housed, and the eight-lane freeways that slice it up. The first impression of Beijing, for both foreigners and visiting Chinese, is often of a bewildering vastness, not least in the sprawl of uniform apartment buildings in which ABOVE THE FORBIDDEN CITY RIGHT THE CBD Not everyone has benefited from the new prosperity, however: migrant day-labourers wait for work outside the stations, and homeless beggars, not long ago a rare sight, are now as common as in Western cities. Students in the latest fashions while away their time in internet cafés, dropouts mosh in grunge clubs, and bohemians dream up boutiques over frappuccinos. The government, meanwhile, seems unable to modernize, remaining as paranoid as ever towards potential dissent – most obvious in all the media restrictions, and the multiple security barriers and bag checks around town – though outside the political arena just about anything goes these days. As the front line of China’s constant reinterpretation of the notion of “modernity”, the city is on permanent fast forward when it comes to urban development, and is continually being ripped up and rebuilt – a factor responsible for the strange lack of cohesion between Beijing’s various districts.
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Though Beijing has been transformed over the last two decades to such an extent that it is barely recognizable, it still remains – spiritually and geographically – the buzzing heart of the nation.
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Yet the city remains firmly rooted in the past: for the last seven hundred years, much of the drama of China’s history has been played out here, a place that saw the emperors enthroned at the centre of the Chinese universe inside the Forbidden City, and later witnessed the chaos of the early communist years.
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And yet it’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer dynamism of this brash, gaudy, elegant, charming, filthy and historic city: whether partying to punk in a club, admiring the bizarre modern architecture spiking the skyline, or pushing your way through the bustling, neon-soaked streets, Beijing is never, ever dull.
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OPPOSITE THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN PREVIOUS PAGE HAND-PRINTING CHINESE SCRIPTĪs the capital of one of the world’s most dynamic economies, the bold modernity of Beijing (北京, běijīng) should take nobody by surprise. Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at ģ East of the centre 4 South of the centre 5 West of the centreģ SANLITUN 2 Workers’ Palace DIANMEN DONGCHENG Stadium 2ND RING ROADīeijing North Prince Railway Gong’s Station
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INSIDE THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, author highlights and more – everything you need to get started BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information THE GUIDE Comprehensive, neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood guide to Beijing, with full-colour maps featuring all the listings, plus excursions further afield, including to the Great Wall, Tianjin and Chengde LISTINGS Where to sleep, eat, drink and shop, plus all the best clubs and theatres CONTEXTS The city’s history, and recommended books and films MAP SECTION Detailed city plans, for easy navigation We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ★ symbolġ The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square 2 North of the centre 1 The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square 40.ġ0 Drinking and nightlife 151.ġ1 Entertainment and the arts 157.ĬITY PLAN 216.